Singapore, the Lion City

The only other trip I've taken outside of North America was when I was 18 and went to be an au pair for a family in Germany for the summer. It was on that trip that I started believing in angels: people who come into your life when you need a boost and they just make you feel so good. In Germany, my angel was Rosalie, an elderly woman and friend of my host family who showed up at the house unexpectedly one day when I was feeling particularly homesick. She was so kind and generous of spirit, it made me forget my troubles. I never saw her again but I'll always remember the way she made me feel.

These days, my life is full of angels. In fact, Singapore is a whole city-state of angels! I chose this place as my entree to Asia because it is a mix of Western convenience and Asian exuberance. The city is clean, modern and efficient: there is little crime, few traffic jams, safe drinking water, etc. I've been staying with Carol Wee, whose daughter Melanie was my good friend in Montreal. Carol might be better described as the unofficial Queen of Singapore: she seems to know everyone and everything about this city, right from the Prime Minister down to the cheapest places to buy camera accessories and the best spot to eat duck rice.

I arrived on Monday and easily made my way to Carol's place on the efficient subway system (a ticket cost only $1.40). Suddenly, I was a minority: white and feeling very tall. Carol immediately whisked me around the neighbourhood for a tour, some food and introductions to her sisters, Chris and Cynthia. If Queen Carol is the matriarch of the family, then her sisters are the lovely duchesses. I wondered where all the men where and was beginning to think that Singapore was a matriarchy of strong women.

Life here revolves around food and I've had many amazing meals with the Wee family. On Tuesday, I felt like a real Singaporean, eating breakfast, lunch and dinner in the hawker centres and dining on such delights as BBQ sambal stingray, prawn mee soup, oyster omelette and a sour plum drink to wash it all down. The average dish in the hawker centres costs about $2.

I feel lucky to be getting two views of Singapore: both local and tourist. In my tourist experience, I've checked out the museums and slurped a Singapore Sling at the Long Bar of the Raffles Hotel - what a cliché! I wandered in the Botanical Gardens and checked out the lush National Orchid Garden after Carol whisked me around for introductions to all her friends and colleagues at National University of Singapore Law School, where she works part-time as a law librarian.

Yesterday, I went to Little India and found where all the men are hiding. Emerging from the subway, I felt like I'd been magically transported to Delhi, complete with sights, sounds and smells of India (although Singapore's version is probably much cleaner than the real thing). The streets were teeming with men, mostly migrant workers for Singapore's construction trade. I was suddenly very aware of my gender and pleased for my modest attire, which I've adopted for my South East Asian adventure: pants below the knee and t-shirt covering shoulders, upper-arms and cleavage.

Travelling alone can be mentally overwhelming but it makes me open to chance encounters with more angels, who show up when I least expect it. An Aussie bloke on the subway asked, "Where'ya from?" and we struck up a conversation for the rest of our journey. I met Arthur, an art dealer, at the Indian restaurant while I munched on my thali, and then there was Anand, a chatty museum guard with a background in bodyguarding. If I ever want to have an art show or need a "close personal specialist," I now have the business cards of some contacts in Singapore.

I have a day or two left in Singapore and I'm wondering where to go next: Malaysia, Thailand, or Cambodia? It is pretty crazy that this is the biggest decision I need to make right now. How blessed I am to be living a stress-free existence surrounded by a myriad of angels! Lots of love to everyone back home.