Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Williamstown (and Farewell to Melbs)

I haven't written in a while because so much has happened! I've been working a bit, saying goodbye to Melbourne and planning my future travel adventures. I definitely believe in angels and the activities and people in my life for the past few weeks have helped me overcome my loneliness.

A few weeks ago, I fled from Melbourne city to Williamstown to escape my loneliness. The MacNeils, who are relatives of my friend Robert van Waarden, live in that historic suburb of Melbourne about 20 minutes on the city train away from the CBD. It was lovely to spend some time "en famille" with Nora and Richard and their lovely teenage daughters, Anna and Ella. The beach is about a 10 minute walk from their house and I was able to borrow a bicycle to trawl the neighbourhood with. The MacNeils provided excellent company, good food and a cozy bed; by the end of my first weekend there, I was feeling back to my happy self.

I've been a bit worried about money lately, in addition to being at a loss for what to do with my time, so I thought I might find a job. I set out from the MacNeils after my lovely weekend retreat, determined to go back to the city to find a job. About 15 minutes after leaving their place...I was gainfully employed! I thought I'd stroll around the waterfront one more time before heading for the train and wandered by The Bend Wine Bar on Douglas Parade, about two blocks from my host's house. I'd heard about The Bend from Tom and Anne Peters, friends of my parents who visited Australia last year. A sign in the window said they were looking for a part-time waitress and, after a short discussion with the owner of our common acquaintance and my job skills, I was hired!

I just loved working as a waitress! The Bend seats about 30 people, serving excellent food and wine. My boss, Daniel, was patient and supportive and I learned the ropes quickly. In the kitchen, Kurtis, the chef, and Parker, the apprentice, were friendly and full of pleasant teasing. I've always enjoyed working with men and this experience was no different. We all worked hard, laughed a lot and got into our cups together once all the customers had gone home. My mother's training in cleaning and party prep certainly paid off: I made excellent tips and felt at ease serving in a fancy resto without much experience. I got delicious meals and wine with every shift and soon found myself saying to customers, "Oh, yes, the kangaroo sirloin is divine. I highly recommend it paired with pinot noir." Having a job put me back in the present - I wasn't thinking about the past or the future. I was just doing my job and getting the great satisfaction that comes with working hard for a job well done.

Back at the MacNeils, who graciously let me stay with them while I worked, I went for lovely runs with Ella around the neighbourhood, made Christmas cookies and helped Richard and the girls pick out the Christmas tree. The contingent of cousins from Botswana arrived for the holidays last week and the house was busy with secret present wrapping, big family meals and lots of dance music. Those African boys, Jaspar and Charlie, can really dance! I was invited to say for the holidays with all the family but I declined because of plans to head to Kangaroo Valley in New South Wales. Once I finished my last shift at The Bend (they are closed for the holidays) and said goodbye to the MacNeil clan, I headed back to Melbourne to pack my belongings and move along.

It wasn't that hard to say goodbye to Melbourne. Most of my good friends had already left and the place was getting a bit empty. In my days off, I visited all those places I'd been meaning to see all semester: the National Gallery, Docklands, the State Library, etc. On my last night in town, I had champagne with Ramiz at sunny Rooftop Bar, with panoramic views of the city. We then met up with Channie, my Korean girlfriend, and Georgia, one of the Fraser Island crew, for a final Korean meal and a drink on Brunswick street. It was hardest to say goodbye to Channie. I've been staying with her whenever I wasn't at the MacNeils (I'm becoming a couch-surfer extraordinaire!) and we've had so many lovely relaxed times together. She walked me to the curb with all my bags on my last morning in Melbs. We hugged for a long time and promised to visit each other in our home countries.

In the taxi to the airport, the cabbie asked, "Going home?" I said, "No, just moving along." I've been thinking that moving on is both the best part and the hardest part of traveling. I'm excited to be moving along from Melbourne but sad for what I'm leaving behind. For now, the next stop is New South Wales, and Kangaroo Valley for Christmas.

More news about Australian summer and holidays to follow. Lots and lots of love to everyone back home...I'm humming "White Christmas" and thinking of you all.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Endings and beginnings

For the past five months, my blog has been many happy tales of my carefree travels and fun adventures with friends in Melbourne. In truth, I have never felt sad or homesick since coming to Australia. This week was a different story. With the end of my safe routine and the departure of treasured friends, I got a pretty bad case of The Lonelys. What a terrible feeling to have in a far away land – and yet, this cloud has a silver lining.

In the days leading up to Texas Matt’s departure, we undertook much beer drinking. That’s how they “do it right” in Austin. We met on a sunny afternoon terrace at the Napier Hotel in Fitzroy, amid lively tables of friends or families on a Saturday outing. A little girl poked me with her red balloon while Matt and I chatted and shared a jug of Horseshoe Draught. Matt was one of my best here in Australia – he would unfailingly pull me out of the law library and into the pub and we shared many jibes and laughs. When I dubbed him Matthieu (“Uh, is that French?”), he declared it the best nickname ever.

Later, Texas Kelly joined us to complete the Melbourne Trifecta. She’s been caught up in an Australian love affair and couldn’t be happier for that addition to her experience here. Kelly has also been an amazing friend for me here. I’ll never forget our times together, going for pedicures and chatting while little Vietnamese women scrubbed and massaged our feet. Or the time we went to eat at Minh Minh in Richmond and talked so long that the waiter finally kicked us out. Kelly is soft, reserved and sweet – a real Southern Belle. She always listened to my constant romantic drama and we’ve had many giggles together.

On Matt’s last night, the Melbourne Trifecta slipped away from his going-away festivities to have one last drink together. At the Little Creatures Dining Hall on Brunswick Street, we shared dessert and wine, discussing our favourite Aussie experiences together. It was hard to say goodbye, but plans are afoot for further exchange visits between Montreal and Austin later in 2009.

Once Matt left, I was pretty much on my own with Channie away traveling the east coast and Kelly tangled with her Aussie bogan. The days started slowly for me. I was sad and immobilized – I’m used to having a schedule, a purpose, a routine. But when I dusted myself off and picked up to CBD (that’s the Central Business District, aka Downtown), I discovered all kinds of solo fun. There was the international homeless soccer tournament, the National Gallery of Victoria, and an afternoon screening of the new Bond movie at my favourite theatre on Collins Street. They sell house-made ice cream and only seven other people were there at 4:00pm on a Thursday.

At some point in my downtown wanderings, I realized that the travel portion of my year off has begun. In the months ahead, much solo traveling awaits me; I’m planning to go to South East Asia after Christmas and then finish up with Western and Central Australia before I go back to Canada next May. I originally had three or four potential travel partners lined up but, one by one, they fell like dominoes and my new plan is to travel alone. Honestly, I’m terrified. But I’m also excited. I haven’t felt this alone since I first moved to the big city all by myself. Back in Montreal, I learned how to enjoy my own company. While I’ve always craved romantic love, my path seems to present an even bigger love affair: the one I’m developing with myself. It isn’t always easy but, in the end, learning to love myself is such a blessing. After all, if I don’t, who will? I have a feeling that I will face many challenges and enjoy many pleasures in the months ahead. I’m excited to know that I have a strong travel companion right here inside of me.

More stories about the long goodbye to Melbourne will follow soon. Lots of love to everyone back home.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Into the Mystic

“We were born before the wind,
Also younger than the sun,
Ere the bonny boat was won
As we sailed into the mystic.”

The Great Ocean Road is a magnificent strip of highway, starting about two hours southeast of Melbourne and continuing for 270 kilometres, winding along amazing cliffs, through rainforests and past aquamarine sea vistas. Fresh-faced and glowing like a new law graduate, I went with Rachel to pick up our rental car for what was to be an amazing road trip. We were off to discover the wilds of Victoria, united as girlfriends, adventurers and foodies! Of course, the first stop was at the Queen Victoria Market to provision ourselves – only the freshest and finest for our distinguishing palates. We got a long loaf of fresh Turkish bread, smoked turkey, olive tapenade, various cheeses, fruits and veg, and three bottles of wine from my favourite vendor…all for about 60 dollars Canadian. An excellent beginning.

Rach had made some excellent mix CDs for the trip: lots of Paul Simon, Rolling Stones and Bob Dylan, etc. We listened to the four discs until we were completely sick of every song…except our very fitting theme song: Van Morrison’s Into the Mystic. It is hard to describe the breathtaking beauty of the Great Ocean Road, combined with my ecstasy over finishing law school and the joy of being on a giggly road trip with a good friend.

“Hark now, hear the sailors cry
Smell the sea and feel the sky
Let your soul and spirit fly
Into the mystic.”

On our first day, we had a delicious picnic lunch at Torquay and wandered the beach past groups of teenagers set free from the classroom for Schoolies Week. Later, we stopped at Anglesea to run screaming into the freezing ocean and body surf on the waves, managing to avoid being bowled over by all the beginner surfers taking lessons. At Lorne, we slowed down to breathe in the relaxed atmosphere of this classy seaside holiday town. But we didn’t stop for the night until we reached Apollo Bay and the Surfside Backpackers, a very obliging little hostel edged by vast ocean.

Way back in September, when the Fraser Island crew met up at the backpackers hostel in Hervey Bay, Rachel commented on my tendency to find the only hot guy in the vicinity and immediately make friends. Apollo Bay was no disappointment; within thirty minutes of our arrival, I was chatting up a handsome German soldier, who was on leave for several months and had a slow, sweet smile. In an excellent division of labour, I nested in the dorms, organizing our bedding and belongings, while Rachel cooked a fabulous risotto with asparagus, mushrooms and steamed fish.

“And when that fog horn blows I will be coming home
And when that fog horn blows I want to hear it
I dont have to fear it
I want to rock your gypsy soul”

On day two, we did a hike in the Otway Rainforest and finished the Great Ocean Road by viewing the Twelve Apostles, a collection of majestic limestone stacks left behind when the earth between them and the mainland washed away. Once past Warnambool, I took the wheel (driving stick on the left hand side!) and directed us north on a quiet road, venturing inland past golden wheat fields, groves of eucalypts and, of course, countless sheep. Rachel slept in the passenger’s seat and I listened to Bob Dylan on low, thinking of my cousin Darryl, who passed away in August under very unfortunate circumstances. It was Darryl’s birthday that day and I thought his troubled spirit would be pleased with the peacefulness of the Victorian countryside.

We stayed at the Asses Ears Wilderness Lodge in the Grampians National Park that night. The lodge is named after a nearby mountain but I think the owners relished the derivative name – their slogan was “Kicking Ass in the Grampians!” It was pretty quiet in those parts and Rachel and I had a whole cabin to ourselves. We quickly unloaded the car, strewing our gear everywhere. I went to the main kitchen to stash our groceries in the fridge…and came across a handsome man. How surprising! Of course, I quickly made friends with Mick, a tour guide from Melbourne and definitely the hottest guy for miles around. That night in the main lodge, Rachel and I nursed a few Carlton Draughts, dined on kangaroo steak and chicken parmas and played Scrabble while the sun set to a symphony of kookaburra song. Back in the cabin, I taught Rach a couple of songs on the guitar before we retired early.

My acquaintance with Mick proved very useful the next day when he showed us all the good hikes, even waiting for us to follow his tour group van to some remote locations. We scampered ahead of his group up Hollow Mountain and were rewarded with a glorious view of that golden landscape dotted with eucalypts. After another short hike to the base of MacKenzie Waterfalls and a relaxed lunch in Hall’s Gap, we started the long drive back to Melbourne on the Great Western Highway. The weather had been glorious all three days: sunny and hot. We arrived back to wet streets and cool air in Melbs – apparently, it had been cold and rainy the whole time.

“I want to rock your gypsy soul
Just like way back in the days of old
And together we will float into the mystic”

I have to thank Rachel for making those days after finishing law school very special. She rocked my gypsy soul with her humour, energy, amazing driving and cooking skills, and just general joie de vivre! The whole trip is emblazoned in my memory by senses: amazing sights, sounds and tastes. And, of course, I will never forget that amazing feeling of freedom when we were sailing along the coast or past fields and mountains, singing along at the the top of our lungs to our theme song, together floating into the mystic.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008


Pomp and circumstance

Many good things have happened in the past few weeks, my friend. First things first: I have officially finished my law school exams! As long as I pass all my subjects – of course, you can leave it to a future lawyer to put a caveat in here – I have finished law school. Hurray! I cannot tell you what an amazing feeling that is.

Writing my exams was actually kind of fun. They took place at the Royal Exhibition Grounds in Carlton Gardens, about a 10-minute walk from Melbourne Uni campus. For three weeks, at 9am and 2pm each day, thousands of students swarmed nervously into the massive and ornate Royal Exhibition building. No one could pay attention to the building’s beautiful moldings and majestic architecture because they were too busy scribbling answers to defamation law questions or calculus problems.

The best part of any exam was, of course, that joyous moment at the end when the invigilator announced that we could leave. Thousands of students swarmed excitedly out of the building, back into the hot air of the day, chatting loudly and smiling widely. Outside, the fountain gloriously trumpeted water and the city skyscrapers loomed above the lush green trees. Everything was happiness and triumph!

After my last exam, I walked out, stunned and thrilled. Channie, my Korean girlfriend, somehow found me in the crowd (she had been writing her last chemistry exam) and she ran up to me, simultaneously grabbing me, jumping up and down and squealing. We giggled and danced all the way to the Lincoln Hotel where we met up with three Aussie girls from my law class and Rachel, who had just arrived in Melbs to help me celebrate. We all celebrated on that long Thursday afternoon with many bottles of champagne and a box of chocolates…it was the perfect ending to my degree.

My law degree has meant so many things to me. Over the past four years, I think I became an adult (well, mostly). I have learned the requisite skills of research, writing and critical thinking. But, more importantly, I discovered the power and satisfaction of having one’s own career. I am so excited to do interesting and challenging work in my life. Perhaps the greatest gift has been developing the confidence in myself to create this beautiful reality.

All that being said…I don’t start my lawyer job for another five months. What to do with my time?! Yes, you guessed it: more travel adventures! After our champagne afternoon, Rachel and I put ourselves to bed early and the next day we were off on a road trip. More news from the road to follow soon – lots of love to everyone back home.