The heat began as soon as I stepped off the plane in Darwin. Later, I would find out that there are three temperatures in the top end of Australia: hot, bloody hot, and f*cking hot. The Wet season had just finished a week before my arrival, so the landscape was lush and the temperatures steaming at 35 degree Celsius and 70% humidity.
I was excited to get to Darwin because it was reunion time. Remember Texas Kelly, my best girl from law school in Melbourne? Well, she decided to come back to Australia for another semester and met me for a nine-day tour of the Australian Outback. We ran into each other's arms and hugged...and immediately started chatting like no time had passed since we last saw each other.
Our tour first took us east of Darwin to Litchfield and Kakadu National Parks. We were a group of 16 backpackers in a big 4x4 vehicle with a hilarious Kiwi tour guide and an Aussie driver who would give Crocodile Dundee a run for his money. The group was great: lots of enthusiastic Germans, two pretty Danish girls, a gentle Frenchman, two funny English engineers, etc. Kelly confided to me that she's sometimes embarassed by her countrymen: "The Americans are so loud...but Europeans are awesome!" As for me, I've said it before and I'll say it again: I love ze Germans.
Given the heat, our main activity was swimming. We sampled all the amazing waterfalls and plunge pools around Kakadu...well, at least the ones that had undergone "crocodile management." At the end of the Wet season, the park rangers wait for the water to recede and then check the pools to make sure they are croc-free. Since crocs can't climb over rocks, the pools are then accessible to visitors for the rest of the season.
In addition to swimming, we did some hikes and saw some amazing Aboriginal rock art. At the top of the Ubirr lookout, we gazed from plateau to plain, soaking in all the elements: the lush greenery of the Nadab floodplain to one side, the red rocks of the jagged Stone Country to the other. There was a refreshing breeze blowing the smoke from the backburn which the park rangers were doing below, a rainbow in the distance and sunshine dappled with a few raindrops. Heaven on Aboriginal earth.
We camped in permanent sites in roomy canvas tents and dined on hearty fare in the screened-in cooking areas. Our guides taught us lots of Aussie songs, with accompanying choreography, and there was constant singing around camp: "Gimme a home amongst the gum trees, with lots of plum trees, a sheep or two and a kangaroo..."
After three days, we trundled back to Darwin to re-group before setting off on the long drive south. The Kakadu crew was full of love and laughs - we all enjoyed each other's company and looked forward to continuing the journey together. More news from the Red Centre to follow - lots of love to everyone back home.
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Friday, April 24, 2009
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Return to Oz - Perfect Perth
I completely zoned out on my Singapore Airlines flight to Perth. The brand-new plane was very comfortable, with good food on offer and funny movies. When the pilot announced that we were starting our descent, I realized that I'd been missing out on the scenery! I opened the window shade and a huge smile spread across my face: red desert, green coast and deep blue sea. Sweet Australia, back in my arms again. It was a beautiful reunion.
I was visiting Cosmo and Sharon, who live in Cottlesloe Beach. Cosmo grew up down the road from me back home and he married a lovely Aussie woman from Perth. Sharon's family is Burmese and they settled in Perth after they fled Burma when Sharon's mother was pregnant with her. After picking me up at the airport and giving me a short tour of the city, we enjoyed a glass of wine from Cos and Sharon's balcony overlooking the Indian Ocean. Amazing. It was just the beginning of a week of breathtaking sunset after breathtaking sunset.
The good times were rolling during my visit: a community gathering with Burmese food and funky music, a house party full of Colombians shooting tequila and dancing salsa, many pints with Cos at the Little Creatures Brewery in Fremantle (or Fre-o, as the locals call it). I spent a day or three at groovy Cottlesloe Beach (called Cott by the locals), alternately lounging on the hot white sand and plunging into the cool, clear blue water. Another day, I rode the ferry out to Rottnest Island, about a 30-minute sail from Fre-o. The little island is a parkland paradise with the most beautiful beaches I've seen on my whole trip. The only way to get around Rotto is to rent a bike, so I tootled around checking out beach after beach, cooing over the quokkas (little marsupials that only live on Rotto) and just marveling at my surroundings. I don't think I've ever said "Wow" so many times in one day in my whole life.
Perth is likely the most isolated city in the world - a green strip of civilization wedged between the blue expanse of the Indian Ocean and the massive desert that makes up Australia's Red Centre. I enjoyed the wide open spaces and sense of isolation because it gives the city a relaxed pace, like there was a lot of breathing room. The weather in Perth was invariably hot, but there was always a cool breeze to take the edge off. I was told that the famous afternoon southerly is called the Fre-o Doctor, a breeze coming up from the south to soothe the intensity of the heat.
Cos and Sharon were the best hosts: they left me little notes when they went off to work and called me during the day to see how I was doing. They seemed so earnestly determined to show me a good time, and they certainly succeeded! Cosmo picked me from the Rottnest ferry on his hot motorcycle and took me on a tour of the beautiful bays and gorgeous neighbourhoods around the Swan River. And we all know how much Asiana loves riding! It felt glorious. Then, on my last day, Sharon surprised me with a gift: a massage at her favourite spa. How sweet is that!
My Perth visit was over way too soon. It was one of my favourite Australian places so far and I'm determined to get back there to live for a year or two someday. For now though, the road continues. Next stop: the great, hot Northern Territory of Oz. Lots of love to everyone back home.
I was visiting Cosmo and Sharon, who live in Cottlesloe Beach. Cosmo grew up down the road from me back home and he married a lovely Aussie woman from Perth. Sharon's family is Burmese and they settled in Perth after they fled Burma when Sharon's mother was pregnant with her. After picking me up at the airport and giving me a short tour of the city, we enjoyed a glass of wine from Cos and Sharon's balcony overlooking the Indian Ocean. Amazing. It was just the beginning of a week of breathtaking sunset after breathtaking sunset.
The good times were rolling during my visit: a community gathering with Burmese food and funky music, a house party full of Colombians shooting tequila and dancing salsa, many pints with Cos at the Little Creatures Brewery in Fremantle (or Fre-o, as the locals call it). I spent a day or three at groovy Cottlesloe Beach (called Cott by the locals), alternately lounging on the hot white sand and plunging into the cool, clear blue water. Another day, I rode the ferry out to Rottnest Island, about a 30-minute sail from Fre-o. The little island is a parkland paradise with the most beautiful beaches I've seen on my whole trip. The only way to get around Rotto is to rent a bike, so I tootled around checking out beach after beach, cooing over the quokkas (little marsupials that only live on Rotto) and just marveling at my surroundings. I don't think I've ever said "Wow" so many times in one day in my whole life.
Perth is likely the most isolated city in the world - a green strip of civilization wedged between the blue expanse of the Indian Ocean and the massive desert that makes up Australia's Red Centre. I enjoyed the wide open spaces and sense of isolation because it gives the city a relaxed pace, like there was a lot of breathing room. The weather in Perth was invariably hot, but there was always a cool breeze to take the edge off. I was told that the famous afternoon southerly is called the Fre-o Doctor, a breeze coming up from the south to soothe the intensity of the heat.
Cos and Sharon were the best hosts: they left me little notes when they went off to work and called me during the day to see how I was doing. They seemed so earnestly determined to show me a good time, and they certainly succeeded! Cosmo picked me from the Rottnest ferry on his hot motorcycle and took me on a tour of the beautiful bays and gorgeous neighbourhoods around the Swan River. And we all know how much Asiana loves riding! It felt glorious. Then, on my last day, Sharon surprised me with a gift: a massage at her favourite spa. How sweet is that!
My Perth visit was over way too soon. It was one of my favourite Australian places so far and I'm determined to get back there to live for a year or two someday. For now though, the road continues. Next stop: the great, hot Northern Territory of Oz. Lots of love to everyone back home.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Reflections on Asiana
My three months in Asia have been an unforgettable experience for me. I was pretty nervous before I left, worried about traveling alone in third world countries. But I seem to enjoy doing things that scare me...so I just jumped in. And it was beautiful.
There are many special things about South East Asia. First, there's all the modes of transportation, such as hot pink taxi cabs in Bangkok with flowered uphostery and wild decorations. In Cambodia, I learned that a Toyota Camry can carry at least eight people, maybe more on the weekends for a trip to the beach. In Vietnam, I saw people transporting everything imaginable on motorbikes: pineapples, pigs, flowers, and even scaffolding.
The animals were also unforgettable. Even in the heart of urban Saigon, a rooster's crow woke me in the morning. You can always tell the gender of the dogs in Asia because the females have sagging nipples from nursing and the males have their bits hanging out all over the place - nobody seems to spay or neuter the animals! The upside is that there are tons of cute puppies and kitties all over the place.
The food, especially street food, was unforgettable. Sweet drinks like mango shake or iced coffee or lemon juice were the perfect way to beat the heat. I've come to adore rice and will have to buy a rice maker as soon as I get home - and learn to make more curries!
Last, the people were so warm and relaxed. Even people trying to rip me off would be pleasant about it. I will always remember all the ladies who befriended me on buses and trains and shared their food. Also, my various travel partners and hosts made my solo trip sometimes feel like a family vacation.
I leave South East Asia feeling more relaxed and confident than ever. I like I've grown so much and learned so much, but I also feel closer to my original self than ever - the person I was when I was a child and life was uncomplicated and carefree. My nickname growing up was Ana so I've decided to call this new composite of myself Asiana.
I unfortunately don't have much more time to write about Asia but I know that my reflections will continue for months and years to come. My odyssey isn't over yet! I'm back to Australia for one more month to see the bits that I missed last time. More news from the road to follow - lots of love to everyone back home!
There are many special things about South East Asia. First, there's all the modes of transportation, such as hot pink taxi cabs in Bangkok with flowered uphostery and wild decorations. In Cambodia, I learned that a Toyota Camry can carry at least eight people, maybe more on the weekends for a trip to the beach. In Vietnam, I saw people transporting everything imaginable on motorbikes: pineapples, pigs, flowers, and even scaffolding.
The animals were also unforgettable. Even in the heart of urban Saigon, a rooster's crow woke me in the morning. You can always tell the gender of the dogs in Asia because the females have sagging nipples from nursing and the males have their bits hanging out all over the place - nobody seems to spay or neuter the animals! The upside is that there are tons of cute puppies and kitties all over the place.
The food, especially street food, was unforgettable. Sweet drinks like mango shake or iced coffee or lemon juice were the perfect way to beat the heat. I've come to adore rice and will have to buy a rice maker as soon as I get home - and learn to make more curries!
Last, the people were so warm and relaxed. Even people trying to rip me off would be pleasant about it. I will always remember all the ladies who befriended me on buses and trains and shared their food. Also, my various travel partners and hosts made my solo trip sometimes feel like a family vacation.
I leave South East Asia feeling more relaxed and confident than ever. I like I've grown so much and learned so much, but I also feel closer to my original self than ever - the person I was when I was a child and life was uncomplicated and carefree. My nickname growing up was Ana so I've decided to call this new composite of myself Asiana.
I unfortunately don't have much more time to write about Asia but I know that my reflections will continue for months and years to come. My odyssey isn't over yet! I'm back to Australia for one more month to see the bits that I missed last time. More news from the road to follow - lots of love to everyone back home!
Friday, April 3, 2009
Straights of Melaka
I'm back to solo traveling, which suits me just fine. The bus trip from Penang to Melaka was the best my trip has yet to offer, with huge plush seats and a pleasant seat mate. Bjorn was a 19-year-old gap year traveler from Sweden: sweet, rather earnest and very quiet. I didn't feel much like talking either and so we shared a companionable silence for the journey. I settled into my very comfortable seat with the Asian version of a fast-food breakfast: sweet milk tea on ice in a plastic bag with a straw sticking out and a triangular package of Nasi Lemak: rice with spicy sambal sauce, anchovies and a hard-boiled egg, all wrapped in a banana leaf. Amazing breakfast food - and much better than any McSomething on offer back home.
During the eight-hour drip, the landscape of Malaysia flew past me lush and green, reminding me of Where the Wild Things Are, which was one of my favourite bedtime stories as a kid. The landscape seemed untouched and undeveloped - I wondered where they were hiding the 25 million people who allegedly live in this country.
Once ensconced in a so-so guesthouse in Melaka, I went in search of food...and found the holy grail. Screw Bombay Mahal on Jean-Talon in Montreal! I have officially found the best Indian food restaurant in the WORLD at Pak Putra Restoran on Jalan Kota Laksamana in Melaka. This food was so good, I would wage holy jihad for it. I would personally sponsor each staff member of the restoran for Canadian immigration - and all their wives and children and aunties and uncles and parents. The place was unassuming, set in a quiet strip mall a few doors down from the 7-Eleven. Permanent spots were set up inside but most people chose to sit at the plastic tables and chairs in the parking lot, enjoying the fresh night air. On the kerb were two tandoori ovens, one to cook the skewers of their famous bright-orange tandoori chicken and one for the naan breads. I loved the sound that the naan-wallah creates when he thumps the dough on the side of the tandoori oven. I went back three nights in a row to try different things on the menu: the most flavourful saag paneer, butter chicken, succulent chicken tandoori, mutton roganjosh, beautiful garlic naans dripping with butter, vegetables markhani, and aloo bhindi (a curry of potatoes and okra) that melted in your mouth...heaven on earth.
The town of Melaka was colonized by the Portugese and the Dutch, so walking through the streets of the old city feels like a stroll through a European town. I did the usual: wandering, eating, looking, sipping and smiling. A old Malay man, a taxi driver on break, beckoned me to drink sweet chestnut tea with him from a street stall but had to rush off for a fare half-way through our conversation. A Spanish couple who have retired in Thailand struck up a conversation from the next table at lunch, reminding me of my parents with their tanned skin, warm smiles and youthful vigour. Finally, two Malaysian couples joined me at my riverside table and urged me to have another cendol with them - this is a Malay dessert of shaved ice, coconut milk, sweet green noodles, red bean jelly and corn (sounds like it might be weird but it is very good and refreshing!). I shared a great conversation with them, talking of travel, working life, marriage, etc. One of the women, Azmah, was most memorable. "Look how brown her skin is," she murmured to her husband, and we laughed about the strange dichotomy in which Western women want tanned skin and Asian women think white skin is most beautiful. Later, she looked at me pointedly: "When will you be married?!" An excellent question, I thought, but I still didn't have an answer. Despite my solo state in life and in travel, I am never alone when I meet so many angels on my journey.
My time in Malaysia came to an end all too quickly. I wish I had planned more time here because I was pleasantly surprised by what I found. The Malays seem used to visitors: Chinese and Indian immigrants abound, not to mention all the Europeans who colonized various parts. The language was so similar to English: you eat at a restoran, buy medicines at the farmasi, and take a teksi or bas for transportation. I felt remarkably at ease for a white woman alone in a Muslim country - but maybe it was a testament to my presumptions that I expected it to be difficult to be a woman in a Muslim country. In addition to being hospitable, I found the Malays to be relaxed, friendly...and very good at making amazing food!
I'm on to Singapore but I know I'll be back someday to Malaysia. Lots of love to everyone back home.
During the eight-hour drip, the landscape of Malaysia flew past me lush and green, reminding me of Where the Wild Things Are, which was one of my favourite bedtime stories as a kid. The landscape seemed untouched and undeveloped - I wondered where they were hiding the 25 million people who allegedly live in this country.
Once ensconced in a so-so guesthouse in Melaka, I went in search of food...and found the holy grail. Screw Bombay Mahal on Jean-Talon in Montreal! I have officially found the best Indian food restaurant in the WORLD at Pak Putra Restoran on Jalan Kota Laksamana in Melaka. This food was so good, I would wage holy jihad for it. I would personally sponsor each staff member of the restoran for Canadian immigration - and all their wives and children and aunties and uncles and parents. The place was unassuming, set in a quiet strip mall a few doors down from the 7-Eleven. Permanent spots were set up inside but most people chose to sit at the plastic tables and chairs in the parking lot, enjoying the fresh night air. On the kerb were two tandoori ovens, one to cook the skewers of their famous bright-orange tandoori chicken and one for the naan breads. I loved the sound that the naan-wallah creates when he thumps the dough on the side of the tandoori oven. I went back three nights in a row to try different things on the menu: the most flavourful saag paneer, butter chicken, succulent chicken tandoori, mutton roganjosh, beautiful garlic naans dripping with butter, vegetables markhani, and aloo bhindi (a curry of potatoes and okra) that melted in your mouth...heaven on earth.
The town of Melaka was colonized by the Portugese and the Dutch, so walking through the streets of the old city feels like a stroll through a European town. I did the usual: wandering, eating, looking, sipping and smiling. A old Malay man, a taxi driver on break, beckoned me to drink sweet chestnut tea with him from a street stall but had to rush off for a fare half-way through our conversation. A Spanish couple who have retired in Thailand struck up a conversation from the next table at lunch, reminding me of my parents with their tanned skin, warm smiles and youthful vigour. Finally, two Malaysian couples joined me at my riverside table and urged me to have another cendol with them - this is a Malay dessert of shaved ice, coconut milk, sweet green noodles, red bean jelly and corn (sounds like it might be weird but it is very good and refreshing!). I shared a great conversation with them, talking of travel, working life, marriage, etc. One of the women, Azmah, was most memorable. "Look how brown her skin is," she murmured to her husband, and we laughed about the strange dichotomy in which Western women want tanned skin and Asian women think white skin is most beautiful. Later, she looked at me pointedly: "When will you be married?!" An excellent question, I thought, but I still didn't have an answer. Despite my solo state in life and in travel, I am never alone when I meet so many angels on my journey.
My time in Malaysia came to an end all too quickly. I wish I had planned more time here because I was pleasantly surprised by what I found. The Malays seem used to visitors: Chinese and Indian immigrants abound, not to mention all the Europeans who colonized various parts. The language was so similar to English: you eat at a restoran, buy medicines at the farmasi, and take a teksi or bas for transportation. I felt remarkably at ease for a white woman alone in a Muslim country - but maybe it was a testament to my presumptions that I expected it to be difficult to be a woman in a Muslim country. In addition to being hospitable, I found the Malays to be relaxed, friendly...and very good at making amazing food!
I'm on to Singapore but I know I'll be back someday to Malaysia. Lots of love to everyone back home.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)