Beach cure in Sihanoukville

It has been a beautiful week in Sihanoukville...I don't want to leave.

Things were a bit crazy when I arrived with Chinese New Year. The beach was standing-room only with Chinese and Khmer families celebrating with lots of food, sun and surf. Every night, a crazy amount of fireworks, flame throwers and excitement, it felt like they'd put on the show just for me. During the day I wandered from the main beach at Occheuteal to Otres Beach to escape the insanity. On the way home, I smiled at and said hello to dozens of Khmer families. They all smiled back and waived, "Hello, Miss! Hello, Madame!" One dad was taking photos with a film camera and the family insisted that I pose for a shot with every single family member. Seven photos later, I'll be in their family album next to grandma, mum, aunt, uncle and each of the three beautiful daughters.

I don't talk about my feelings much in this blog, but they are very present in my travelling experiences. There have been many moments when I'm so scared or lonely, feeling out of my depths. Thank goodness, these difficult moments always pass and I find myself feeling confident again, happy to be travelling alone. It has taken a while, but I don't think I'd want it any other way.

My days are organic: sleep till whenever I want to get up, eat something lovely like a mango shake and banana pancake, and then do whatever I want to do. Reading is also a big part of my day and I've been devouring books like I haven't done since before law school. I've obviously spent some days lounging on the beach: there are little shacks up and down the sandy stretch with obliging lounge chairs and umbrellas. I'd order a drink (mojito, anyone?) or a snack (fried noodles with shrimp, anyone?) and just sit, watching the world on the beach. It can get a bit much at times with all the vendors selling bracelets, sarongs, sunglasses, lobsters, massages, manicures, etc. They'll sell you anything, really. I bought some pineapple from a little girl who asked if I had a boyfriend. "No? I'll get you one, if you want." The sex tourism is a bit upsetting here. Mostly, you see overweigh white men with these tiny Asian women...yuck.

I took a day trip to the islands and met some nice British boys during our snorkelling and beaching. Lunch was grilled barracuda, fresh baguette (I love the French influence!) and crispy salad, with lovely fruit for dessert. At night time, there are endless edible possibilities: seafood bbq on the beach, traditional khmer food in town, and lots of tourist pleasers, like gourmet pizza, indian food, spanish tapas, european cuisine, etc. All this is washed down with an Angkor draft beer for 50 cents, or a cocktail for $1.50. As you can tell, I'm having a food extravaganza!

Sihanoukville is an amazing escape but I realize that it is hardly the real Cambodia. This country is still reeling from recent wars and genocide. Garbage is everywhere and standards of living are low. Anyone older than 30 years survived the Khmer Rouge regime and it sometimes shows in their taut skin and tiny bodies: signs of the severe malnourishment they suffered. But most Cambodians (40% of the population) are under the age of 15 so there is lots of youthful energy. Theculture is still conservative: the Khmer women bathe fully clothed and locals gawk at the half-naked tourists. Cambodia seems to be finding its way from tyranny to freedom, from age to youth. I just hope that it doesn't become completely Westernized because there is something lovely about the small-town feeling, the old way of life.

I don't really want to leave Sihanoukville but the road call me onward. Tomorrow, I'll take the bus to Phnom Penh and head to Vietnam on Tuesday. More stories from the road will follow, of course! Lots of love to everybody back home.