Happy Buddha

Hello! I haven't written in so long. Silence has been a theme these past two weeks. Yes, I'm into the solo part of my travels. Vietnam was very social and I really appreciated all the friends I made. But I've been craving some quiet time...and I sure got it.

The train ride from Bangkok to Chiang Mai was great: twelve hours passed very quickly in my comfy 2nd class sleeper berth. With a big pillow, clean sheets and warm blanket, it was easy to get a good night's sleep en route. In the morning, I was magically transported to the dry and mountainous north. Chiang Mai is a charming city, although it is a little bigger than I expected. I'm staying very close to the Thapae Gate, just outside the walled city and moat area. There is constant traffic around the city and I was surprised to see not one but about seven Starbucks coffee shops! Very strange. I haven't been doing much in Chiang Mai, just wandering and eating and devouring books. I spent a day at the pool. Another day, I rented a bike and tootled around but sometimes found the traffic a bit harrying. The night markets are pretty cool with lots of great, cheap food. But I had to avert my eyes from all the lovely things on sale.

I took the bus four hours north through the mountains to Pai to visit Rex and Aroon. I met Rex in Singapore; he is a friend of Carol Wee (do you remember the Queen of Singapore?). Rex and Aroon are Singaporean and Thai, respectively, and they are old hippies who live on a hill. The days with them were groovy: strong sweet tea in the morning, lounge around till brunch, maybe play some guitar (Rex is a whiz at flamenco style), lay in the hammock, etc. Rex was often killing time until 5pm, when Aroon decreed that he could open his first beer. I biked around the neighbourhood, into town and around the countryside. They took me to the hot springs for dinner and dip on my first night. Another day, we undertook a big hike into the woods to find a waterfall that Rex's friend told him about. We waded in the stream for hours, which cooled us in the dry heat. Eventually we were rewarded when we came upon a lovely waterfall where we had a nice lunch of egg-and-cheese sandwiches, followed by a dip in the cool water. It was really nice for me to have a homestay after two months in hotels and guesthouses. On my last night, I took over the kitchen and made spaghetti carbonara, Thai-style. Rex is a real foodie and wanted me to make something he wouldn't normally have. It was great to cook again and try a familiar recipe using new ingredients.

Back in Chiang Mai, I had just enough time to re-pack my bags and have another bite of the night market. On Friday morning, I set off for Wat Doi Suthep, a Buddhist temple on the mountain above Chiang Mai. My mission? A three-day Buddhist meditation retreat. I was a bit nervous about the retreat: the days started at 5am and ended at 10pm, no eating of solid foods allowed after noon, no books, magazines, notebooks or ipods, no sleeping during the day, etc. Oh, and no speaking to anyone except 15 minutes a day with the teacher-monk during progress report. Aside from about two hours of set activities, all I was to do was meditate and contemplate for the rest of the day. All participants wore loose white clothing. At first, it was very hard to just...do nothing. But by the end, I was serene and content. I've been wishing for a time when I wouldn't have to do anything or worry about anything or accomplish anything. Here was my chance - and I came to relish it.

Doi Suthep temple is an amazing complex. You have to climb about 300 stairs to reach the compound. The main temple area is wonderfully ornate, with a huge golden stuppa and countless statues of Buddha in every precious metal. This is a popular destination for tourists so the temple was abuzz during the day. I mostly avoided the hubbub, sticking to the meditation centre, which was tucked away in a quiet garden behind the temple. I spent a lot of time in the big, airy meditation halls or sitting under a tree in the garden. In the evening, the climax of the day was to go to the temple, now empty of tourists, and witness the nightly chanting of the monks and novices. I could sit for an entire hour, entranced by the sounds, and not even realize that so much time went by. It was very interesting to live amongst the temple community for a few days: it was like a little city with lots of monks, nuns, novices, and countless temple boys who kept the place very clean and tidy. Amazingly, the whole experience was free (donations welcome). I had simple but comfortable accommodation and the most amazing vegetarian meals. Three days was not enough and it was hard to come back down the mountain. Someday, I'd like to do the 21-day Foundation Course in meditation there.

Well, I could go on and on about my Doi Suthep experience, but I'm sure you get the idea. For now, I'm back in Chiang Mai and preparing for another night-train experience. This time, I'm headed south. I'll only stop in Bangkok long enough to change trains for Surat Thani. Next stop: the beach! Yes, I felt a little decadent leaving the meditation retreat because I "have" to go to the beach...but I'm sure there will be plenty of opportunity for meditation surfside. More news from the road to follow - lots of love to everyone back home.